This report is kind of old but never written about before.I bought
this pirate-ship for only 3 Euros at a second hand shop when I was
living in the woods 2012 and I found it again when I opened a card-
boardbox in our cellar last week.
This pirate-ship will also be updated with a rear section with a
steering-wheel and a closed compartment with windows.
The ship will be fitted with cannons and a observationpost in the mast.
The ship is a slowgoing vessel but looks menacing enough and with
the cannons mounted I wouldn´t be happy if I was townfolk or a
peaceful fisherman. I intend to use it as a landingcraft and
a cargoship for plunder. This ship will stay in the rear when
the heavier pirate-ship will make way with all their firepower.
Two weeks ago me and my friend Olle went to a fair named 3Dmeetup in
the town of Helsingborg. The fair was a community-meeting and also
a workshop and I must say that it was very inspireing.
Both me and Olle are creative persons and we always looks for new
territories to explore. This has been a small fantasy for me for
years but now the 3d-writers are much cheaper than in 2008 when I
worked with them professionally when making prototypes for the
interior-market. The writers could print in various plastics:
abs, pla and resin and it was fun to see how easy and beautiful
the result was. I have been working with drawing in CAD (ArchiCAD,
AutoCAD lt, Solid works and Inventor) for almost 11 years and I
see a lot of new projects ahead.
Olle and me also looked at the price and the software to operate
the 3d-printer was around 100 Euros in Sweden and a average
3D-writer could be bought for around 350 Euros.
The compabiltiy to make your own 3d-models are very vast because
most 3d-programs can save in the format STL or VRML.
The plastic to use is not so expensive if you use it right and
it cost 35 Euros for a thread-roll (1 kg-abs).
If you get warmed up and wants to model figures the resin is the
choice and it is a little bit more expensive 50 Euros for 1 kg.
The plan is now to buy a 3d-printer and the time to do this is set
after the summer because I must renovate our cellar and make
my hobby-room complete and tidy. Very interesting times ahead.
Some weeks ago I read an add on Facebook about selling a lot
of Imperial guard figures and bits.I contacted the seller and
bought a case of bits for only 10 euros.
The main reason for this "investment" is that I need bits and
figures to complete my own Cadian-force to Warhammer 40k.
My plan is to build a second veteran-squad equipped with
these weapons: 1 officer (lasergun+powersword), 1 flamer,
1 voxcaster (laser-rifle), 1 plasmagun, 1 sniper, 1 soldier
with a regimental flag and 4 riflemen with laser-rifles or
2 more rifle-men with laserrifles, 1 rifleman with a
shotgun and finally soldier with a 1 rocket-launcher.
In the buy I also found a lot of bits to use for mecha-build.
A nice find was the skull-sign that will be a unpleasant road-
sign in post apocalyptic scenery. The sentinel-roof with leafes
are spot on in my desert/jungle-4-wheel conversion.
Nice stuff indeed and for once I don´t feel that I need more bits
ever... :)
At work they made profiles for a customer in solid american oak and
the leftovers were garbage for some but not for me. :)
I looked at the U-shape and measured 25mm inside the gap and this
will fit perfectly for most of my figures.
The only figures that will not fit inside are my sotr-figures with
a base measuring 32mm i diameter.
The front and the back of my oak-profiles will be coated with
cutouts that will look like stone-work when painted. I have not decided
yet if I will use polystyrene or cardboard but the most vivid choice
would be polystyrene.
The U-profile measure 35mm in height and 45mm in depth and the
long pieces are 130mm in length.
I have not decided if I will add a base to make the profiles look more
wall-like but I think otherwise they will not look realistic.
I will probably add a base in soft MDF in a thickness of 22 or 30mm
and then the total height of the stone wall will measure 57 or 65mm.
I have also made a cut in some of the profiles (55 dgr) to make the
"stone-walls" more versatile. Finally I will make end-sections and
profiles with cutouts to symbolize rear entrances to the walls.
Here are also some pictures below to show how
I am going to make the stonework out of carved
ploystyrene.The pieces will be glued onto the
wooden profiles using pva.
